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Sahara Bound, or How to Get Married in the Sahara

Good fortune

It’s cold in the morning and we skip breakfast, ready to get going. We use the sand ladders again, Rick racing ahead in the car to find a stable spot to stop, me running behind flapping 2 heavy ladders in tow. The satellite phone is fairly useless. ‘Point at the nearest satellite’ it says. Oh […]

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Children of the Corn

Three seconds after we veered off the main road to Nouakchott and onto the sand (besides a few tar roads, all of Mauritania is either sand or rocks) we were lost. We’d hoped to drive along the railway dividing Western Sahara and Mauritania and expected some semblance of a track. Instead there was just undrivable […]

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No Man’s Land

We get up early and leave the Barbas Hotel, an hour’s drive to the border between Morocco/Western Sahara and Mauritania. Actually, let me rephrase. An hour’s drive to a few car lengths before the Morroccan border – entirely different from the Mauritanian border. In the hotel parking lot we nod to the first Westerner we’ve […]

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Continue to grave

An ominous start today, with the GPS on first glance reading “Continue to [grave]”. Actually the ‘l’ on ‘gravel’ blending with the bracket, but enough to stop my heart a couple beats, and not helped by a blood drenched highway shortly thereafter – truck plus camel I hope is all. And speaking of, our first […]

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Po-po

Nearing the border to Western Sahara the roads are getting narrower, but still paved. The police are out in force. Like in India, the word ‘Canadian’ is working wonders, and as much as it pains me to say so, New Zealand draws either a glazed look or a disdainful sniff. It doesn’t help that the […]

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Moustache man

The next day we are on the road out of Marrakech, deeper into Africa. The riad Dar Anika folks have packed us a picnic lunch, which was incredibly nice of them. They also gave us a coffee plunger as a present because we couldnt find one in the market. A hundred stars on Trip Advisor. […]

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Slugs and Snails and Puppy Dog Tails

Ab was so kind, he upgraded our room and this one was even more beautiful, with a four poster bed under a domed ceiling with little round skylights, about twenty or so. Hanging from the center of the dome was a light made of colored glass and on the marble floor were several large skins. […]

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Skinned alive

At 4:30 we’d booked a hammam and massage at the Riad Dar Anika. An experience not to be missed if you are a serious pain lover. We were led into a small concrete room where the lady took off my glasses, so the rest of this is from touch and Rick describing for me. I […]

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Marakech

In the morning we are prepared a sumptuous breakfast, again on the rooftop. Yoghurt with pomegranate seeds, crepes, sponge cake (odd, for breakfast), English muffins – Morrocan style, fresh orange juice, coffee of course, for Rick. They bring a basket of flowers to the table to wish us a happy marriage. More roses, yellow, pink, […]

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Pay me more!

Leaving Rabat we now have three GPSs, each one more useless than the last. We’ve bought an app for 20 misspent dollars, only to find it doesn’t allow you to search for destinations. So we leave with the Panasonic PowerBook balanced on my lap. It weighs three tons and is getting hotter, fun in this […]

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